Skip to main content

Lessons Learned By Sewing

 

See this pattern envelope? It says that the pattern is "Easy". It was and it wasn't. In my continuing quest to integrate some v-necks into my wardrobe I decided to give this New Look 6340 a try. I liked the slightly floaty bottom section, a bit more fitted top and I like the side pockets a lot. Since the summer is waning I wanted to give this try while I still had some summery weather to enjoy wearing it.

I used this lawn fabric from Cotton and Steel designed by Rashida Coleman -Hale and called "Mochi Floral". I purchased it on sale last April from an ETSY shop called Chateau Sew & Sew. I had a difficult time getting the colors right in the pictures that I took outdoors, but the image above is close to correct and shows the blues to advantage, while they seem to fade in the photos taken in sunlight and shade.

I have not seen many patterns from New Look and I decided that it would be prudent to make a muslin of the top part. I am glad that I did....in fact I ended up making FOUR muslins of the bodice sections until I got right. My shoulders remain fairly small in comparison to my "mature" bodice and waist measurements these days and I always find that I need to grade between sizes. I also chose this pattern to teach myself to how to construct and sew an FBA (full bust adjustment). It is something that I knew I had to learn to do sooner rather than later. Since most commercial patterns are designs for a B bust, doing an FBA can help garments hang better when you are off that size bra cup. Now, of course, I wonder why I hesitated to do it sooner. It wasn't at all difficult. Of course, because I made the FBA adjustment. I also ended up having to raiseand lengthen the bust darts.

The other major challenge for me was that I raised the neckline by 2.5". Which meant that I had to re-draft the neck facings. Raising a neckline is generally quite simple and straightforward, but because I raised it so much it was a bit more of a challenge to get the proportions where I wanted them. I have never considered myself to be a prude, but I am not happy when I wear a v-neck that displays way too much when I bend over even a little bit. I just am not comfortable with it....and never have been even as a much younger woman. Yes, I would call myself modest when it comes to clothes!

After the fourth muslin it all fell into place. Unfortunately, since I was not able to wear the dress and get photos, you cannot see the fullness of the skirt section...in this view it looks much like my trip and true patterns. In reality, I suppose it is similar though.

I cut out a new pattern that had all of my changes and adjustments from Pellon 830 "Easy Pattern" and cut the fabric. I had bought a mini bolt of the Pellon to try as a less expensive alternative to Swedish Tracing Paper ( though WAWAK offers the lowest price anywhere for it and I happy to say that it is quite comparable...slightly thinner perhaps, but it works well.


When I sew my projects seem to "talk" to me at times. Of course some would say that means I am crazy, while others may feel that it is the "voices" of creative play. I prefer that idea. Anyway, as I was sewing up this pattern I decided that the neckline was perfect for some "big stitch" embellishment. I started with a line of stitches 1-2" in from the neckline using a variegated blue-white Caron "Wildflowers thread. Then I decided it needed to be two lines instead. When that was done I looked for some beads to add. I had these lovely triangle beads from Beyond Beadery...they are white lined with a silver AB (aurora borealis) effect in size 11/0 (I also had 8/0 but preferred the smaller size) that twinkle nicely. I added them in between the big stitch gaps...just a bit of summer bling.

This simple pattern took me WAY more time than it should have, but I did learn a lot from it.

1. I am now comfortable with making an FBA. I had good results raising and lengthening the darts.

2. I successfully raised a neckline quite a lot and also had success in re-shaping the neck and re-drafting the facings.

3. I got to enjoy making multiple muslins of the top. I generally have only needed to make one muslin. I found making multiple muslins, although a bit tedious, teaches you a lot. It shows you how changing one piece of a pattern will require making other changes necessary...invaluable information in the long run. It saves a lot but not wasting more expensive fabric. I simply do not like using tissue paper patterns....especially for fitting issues.

4. I enjoyed the simple neckline embellishments.

Inquiring minds want to know:

Are you a person who dislikes trying and trying until you get the "puzzle" worked out or are you a 'one time only' kind of sewer?

Do you enjoy fitting challenges or does it really turn you off to making clothes?

Do you have a favorite pattern company? Which one(s) and why???

Thanks so much for stopping by as I now return to my appliqué block adventures!

 

Comments

  1. Pretty much a one time sewer. It either works or not. I really don't alter that much of regular clothing patterns. Just maybe lengthen the sleeves or legs. My real adjustments comes from cosplay and a lot of time I am combining bits and pieces of different patterns to make it work.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Share your thoughts! Thank you for taking the time to stop by!

Popular posts from this blog

Circular Knitting Needle Comparison

When I use something a lot I have to admit that I try to find the brand that works best for me. I never thought that I would ever be a scissor snob until I found Dovo brand scissors and, of course I love my trusty Fiskars too. I became a scissor snob thank to Dovo. 
Now I seem to be searching for the perfect knitting needles - the perfect one for me at least. I have been enjoying the 'chase' and I think I am close to knowing exactly what my preference is, and want, in a knitting needles. 
I only use circular knitting needles. When I first taught myself to knit myself  that's what I used and my preference has not changed. I began knitting with Addi Turbo needles. That is the brand that my LYS sold and I have always loved how slick and fast they are. I have sets of Addi clicks interchangeables in both lace and regular.  Over time, I have discovered what I want in a knitting needle: metal, the pointiest tip possible, a fast knitting, slick, metal needle and a very flexible c…

Fabric Stiffeners and Hardeners For All Occasions Plus A Recipe For Home Made Starch Alternative

I have had to become better acquainted with various ways to harden, stiffen or prevent fraying in cloth lately. It has been an enlightening journey, and I thought that I would pass it along the lessons that I have learned about a variety of excellent products that suit any need to 'tame' fabric for a variety of reasons. 
Fray Check. Who among us has not used this ubiquitous little potion over the years? It works like a charm to 'glue' up those raw edges on some of the most beautiful fabrics I use; ensuring that I can sew the fabric without fear of endless unraveling. This product has remained a favorite since I first discovered it many years ago. The only change that I think Prym/Dritz has made to it over the years is a finer application tip.
I have re-discovered my admiration for this product as I was making a holiday gift from some beautiful cotton that was especially prone to fraying! I have also recently learned that Fray Check can be removed with rubbing alcohol.…

Aurifil's New 80wt Appliqué Thread

The changes that getting older bring can be amusing at times. When I was younger I eagerly awaited hearing about a new job or pay raises, what the weekend might bring, what art I hoped to make soon...those kind of life experience kind of things. Lately though, my 'awaiting moments' are far more simple. Thread! Yes, I have been eagerly waiting to try Aurifil's new appliqué thread...an smooth, strong, 80wt cotton. It seems that my 'making' life has been dominated by hand sewing and hand appliqué lately. Therefore, anything that tends to make my stitches look smaller and blend better is on my radar. Over the years I have used a lot of varieties of appliqué thread. Who doesn't love stitching with silk thread?! It's soft, lustrous and blends so well! My issue with sewing with most silk threads was that it tended to break a lot. I tried to love Superior Threads Bottom Line poly and Wonderfil's Invisifil poly. The problem? I really tend to be old school and …