100 Acts of Sewing Dress No.3

100 Acts Of Sewing Dress No.3
Some of you may know that I am a big fan of simple clothing styles that are make great, flexible, bases, or blocks if you will, for the sort of fabrics that I like to sew and wear. It seems that some of my favorite, or TNT (tried'n'true), patterns come from Sonya Phillips of 100 Acts of Sewing. I just cannot stay away from her Dress No2 pattern. I make it over and over again with small variations.
Image above:
my favorite Dress No.2 from 100 Acts of Sewing on ETSY.com
I decided to try her Dress No.3. Typically, I am not a fan of cut on sleeves like this but I was curious. I had some yardage, bought several years ago, of Heather Bailey Momentum rayon...no longer available, alas. Rayon is one of my absolute fabrics to sew and wear. It is soft, comfortable, easy to sew and absorb any for summer wear.
Dress No.3 : image by 100 Acts of Sewing on ETSY.com
As always I copied the very simple pattern onto Pellon Easy-Pattern. Sonya's patterns are printed on nice, white, hefty, large format, paper...not on flimsy tissue as most patterns are these days...so copying is not all that necessary, but copying has become a part of my process and I like keeping the pattern uncut. Generally, I trace and cut my patterns for a small-medium at the shoulders and blend to large across bust (if I do not make a full-bust adjustment to the pattern) and then taper the body of the pattern between medium-large as needed. I find it easier to cut a traced pattern down if needed that to add to.
I neglected to make a muslin of this dress -which I almost always take the time to do with a new pattern. It worked out alright in the end, but a muslin, even for this ultra simple dress would have been a good idea as things turned out. When I first put it on I was shocked. It looked like a sack! I cut the pattern and the dress down. Removed 1.5 inches per side, 2 inches in length (removing the vents) and adjusted the neckline with an inverted pleat in the back, which I covered with an embroidered blue-berry bit that I had made for another project long ago. If you at the bottom of the image below you can the inverted pleat...an inch per side. I also tapered the sides, and added in-seam pockets.
my 'fudged' inverted pleat and camouflage.

With all of the adjustments, the dress tuned out well and is comfortable and very wearable now. I had already made a shirt from this material a few years ago so now I have what amounts to a "outfit". I wish that I had made that shirt with longer sleeves now, but it works surprisingly well. I know that I am going to really appreciate this dress this summer!
Next up for apparel sewing projects:
There is a great sew-along that has just started for the Painted Portrait Dress....thanks to SewHungyHipp

I don't always find fabrics that I want to wear. My taste in fabrics for quilting and for clothes are quite different and I am not a huge fan of "as courant" fabrics for clothes. I tend to look for texture and near solid colors for clothes. One of the few places that I seem to always find clothing fabrics (and patterns too) that call to me is Stone Mountain and Daughter Fabrics from Berkeley, California. They feature unique fabrics, excellent service and a good website. I bought both of these patterns from there as well as some textured, heavy rayon for a Fall-Winter tunic/dress.
I would love to her from you! :
  • What are your fabric sites to buy fabrics? Websites please!
  • What are your favorite fabrics to wear?
  • Do you have differing tastes for the fabrics you buy for making clothes and quilts or are they very similar? Does one effect the other?
In other sewing news..
Remember this ancient bit of my quilt history?! It's my quirky version of Sue Cody's Sweet Surrender Quilt...
I am happy to report that the main body of the quilt (shown below pre-together stage) is finally sewn together! I am working on the borders now. Initially, I had planned to just "get-er-done" with a speedier style, faster, answer to the border work. As usual, once I got going, I realized that a quick way was just an excuse to not do my better/best work. So, I have bitten the proverbial bullet and have just accepted that the borders will require considerable more time than I had hoped for. It has taken so long bynthis point that extra time really doesn't matter. More opportunities to do the hand work that I enjoy. I am, at least, finally re-dedicated to completion and I work on it a bit every evening.
Below: Border in progress...


  1. Interesting post. Thanks. I was curious about your take on the 100 AOS pattern line. I bought No. 1 but have been hesitant to make it with the cut-on sleeves (and no gusset, evidently). You basically drafted your own pattern for No. 3, it seems. The fabric is lovely. I would love to see it as worn.


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